|
 |
»
»
»
How green is your Eco-Tour?
ARTICLES, SPEECHES AND OTHER READING
CAVEMAN'S MEDIA
HOW GREEN IS YOUR ECO-TOUR?
Sawasdee, In-flight magazine Thai Airways International
February, 1997
The sea was five meters, so I was paddling a mile out beyond the surf - in
the deep blue water where big things lurk. Extra alert, I sensed something
behind me, and looked over my shoulder to see a full-grown humpback whale
headed straight for my kayak. The huge cetacean pulled up parallel, close
enough to touch my paddle. I smelled its breath (bad!) and looked down its
blowhole. Our eyes met, and we shared a magic moment from two meters. The
eye was a foot across, and a hundred miles deep. I'm a student of eye
contact, and this whale was every bit as intelligent as the kayaker.
And a lot calmer. I was overjoyed, but my paddling partner, an emergency
physician, was going crazy. "What if the tail hits us, or we capsize in
these heavy seas?" Gene saw the potential disasters - he lives them every
day. I saw a lifetime opportunity and maintained course.
The whale closed the gap even further, and we "talked", mesmerized by each
other's eyes. Then I looked down - the whale was a mother, and her baby was
wedged between us, as long as my 17-foot kayak, but about two feet wide. It
was a close fit, as tight as a mother walking her baby stroller in a crowded
mall.
I almost fell out of the kayak. When Gene saw the baby, he calmed down a
bit. Mama came to show off her calf, not place it in peril. We enjoyed three
of the most magical minutes anybody ever experienced.
Certainly, this was Ecotourism at it's spontaneous best.
A lot of whales hang out in a place called Magdalena Bay on Mexico's Baja
coast. We've all seen the idyllic pictures of a happy "Ecotourist" reaching
from a dinghy and petting a whale on the nose. Sometimes, the whale's eye is
visible, and sometimes, I'm sure, other folks enjoy similar magic moments.
But is this Ecotourism?
Last year, University of New Mexico anthropologists studied the economics of
Magdalena. It was a great business - California travel companies made over
US$7 million off the whales. Trouble was, only $33,000 stayed in the village
of Magdalena to "benefit" the local residents.
Is this Ecotourism?
In its pure "Community Based" form - the one we all visualize - Ecotourism
is as caring and benevolent as the warm tropical waters where whales calve.
Protecting Nature with Economic prosperity sounds great, and most customers
"buy into" the experience thinking they are helping both the habitat and the
people they visit. The potential is enormous, but the bottom line is that
Ecotourism is still business.
That's not a problem except for two things - the Promise of Ecotourism makes
some rather grandiose claims, and taking people into pristine nature is
playing with fire. Unfortunately, for every dedicated "Labor of Love"
Ecotourism entrepreneur, a dozen opportunists exploit the Ecotourism boom.
Commercialism blended with uncaring governments more interested in economic
growth than Nature conservation means that advances involve a long, tedious
process, with step-by-step results. The problem is our Rock and our species
don't have eons. We are destroying Planet Earth faster than we can implement
new ideas.
This reality hit hard as I was riding a longtail up No-Man's Water", where
the Salween River separates Thailand and Burma. "Keep low," explained my
boatman. "SLORC snipers assume all farang are Karen sympathizers. They might
miss you and hit me."
Still, I peeked over the gunnel, and a chestnut hill grew out of the Burma
side. As we sped closer, a white speck appeared on top. The mountain became
teak lumber scrap; the remnants of illegal logs inefficiently square cut in
the rush to finance this 50-year-old war. The speck became a full-grown man.
My heart drained as I considered the futility of our collective challenge.
(That's right, we all must take collective responsibility for our future.)
I was returning from a small victory - convinced a Karen village that
guiding tourists to photograph a nearby herd of wild oxen made better
economics than slaughtering the herd. The numbers were simple - the village
earned $120/month by slaughtering an ox, or they could make $200/week while
protecting the herd. The answer was obvious. This was Ecotourism at its
best, helping both the village and the oxen.
Persuasive economics proved the minor challenge. The war heated up, and the
scheme never got going. Even adventure travelers avoid war zones.
Mountains of teak scrap presented another problem, far more enduring and
pervasive than a 50 year war, or even the survival of the endangered oxen.
That pile of rotting wood was a 100-meter high mound of money, representing
local power structures, political groups, corruption and extensive payrolls
- all hidden in lawless territories. How can Ecotourism displace the
environmental genocide of illegal logging, mining, or ill-planned dams?
Quite simply, it can't. And it isn't supposed to. Despite mega-resort
marketing claims, Ecotourism is a cottage industry. Take out the hype, and
true Ecotourism is a cautious first step, decades away from becoming a true
economic force. Most of my academic friends think I'm a Don Quixote. All
their print-outs say the Nature runs out before the Caveman - "New
Economics" catches on. They are probably right - the last tuna will find a
drift net in only twenty-five years; the last native tree falls in thirty.
We - you and I, everybody on this plane, and all those on the ground - must
constantly address these issues. Diminishing and polluted resources must
guide our every action. Even in our holiday activities, we should provide a
positive impact.
Be a concerned consumer. Think about your purchasing decisions, and vote
with your pocketbook. Selecting the best Ecotourism operator may be an
important factor in your destination's future, as well as your own
successful vacation.
That's difficult without knowledge in an activity or an understanding of
local affairs. How do you choose from among the mushrooming "Ecotourism"
companies, especially in markets where outfitters make unrestricted
marketing claims? Its an important decision - and your choice impacts on
your time, money and safety; not to mention the well-being of a village or
habitat.
Location and activity are important - you want the most picturesque and
rewarding vacation possible, and South-East Asia is a stunning tropical
destination. However, the most important factor is the operator's intent. Is
this company a village-owned "Labor of Love", or an absentee operator
exploiting that village, merely going through the motions of providing an
outdoor experience that draws no complaints?
The best way to select an Ecotourism product is to do the research yourself,
even if you go through an agent. That's getting easier in these technical
times, so have fun with it.
"Word of Mouth" is still the best advertising, but always consider the
source. Many copycats give customers a decent experience, but still far
below "Labor of Love" standards. If you do take somebody's advice, make sure
they know their activity - are they a birdwatcher, kayaker, rock climber, or
simply a tourist who had a "good time".
Pricing - Costing tells a lot. Originals want to share their "Thing", and
offer a fair price, with value for money. Large absentee operators often
charge high prices to finance slick brochures and fancy cars - and fool you
into thinking they are the best. Local copycats put out the cheapest trip
possible, but keep their price just below the original - usually making
greater profits at the expense of safety, quality gear and scientific
knowledge.
Advertising is a worthless indicator. "Truth in Advertising" laws are rare
anywhere, and low-cost operators frequently mimic the claims of the
original. I know one copycat who actually used the original operator's
brochures for their trip vouchers! Use ads as an indicator, but never
believe them.
Safety is vital. What is your safety-training program? Do you carry a
medical kit? Radio? Can you include a content list when you mail me
information? Are your guides credentialed in first aid or emergency
medicine? Please include those, too. Do you have an emergency evacuation
plan?
Clippings can be useful, but again, travel writers may not be kayakers,
trekkers, SCUBA divers or naturalists. Just because it's in print doesn't
make a statement correct. However, numerous clippings with the same theme
are unarguable.
Proof of Insurance is a good indicator of responsibility. Ironically,
conscientious operators who don't have accidents usually carry the most
coverage. Ask for proof of insurance when you make your travel decision, not
as you start the trip. If there are liability forms to sign, ask to see them
in advance.
Be True to yourself and don't go on trips that are beyond your capabilities.
Sure, everybody wants to visit Everest Base Camp, Scuba dive to 100 feet and
sail the Seven Seas. But is that within your physical capabilities?
Phone Call interviews are helpful if you are as inquisitive as an
investigative journalist is. Are you the original? Really? How long have you
been in business, and how long did you do this before you opened shop?
Again, copycats will tell you over the phone they are the first, and the
best. Dig beyond that statement to discover the real truth. What are your
professional qualifications? Can I see them, along with the address of the
credentialing organization? Copycats are only interested in their profits,
and invariably have a shallow knowledge of the real activity, and don't
invest in safety or training.
Follow these guidelines. It won't take long. Be innovative, and ask your own
personal questions. As the Trade Assn. Of Sea Kayaking says, "Damn the
agents - you should ALWAYS talk to your outfitter before signing up.". It is
understandable that an agent wants to handle your complete booking, but
conscientious operators always want to deliver the best product for your
particular needs, even in a group. They want to "know" you in advance. For
both your benefit, be honest about what you want and what you expect.
During and After the Trip don't be afraid to give your ideas to your guide,
privately. Good operators want feedback. Don't be a problem, but recognize
that quality Eco-tourism is service-oriented, and quality operators want
your thoughts.
Repeat clients and word-of-mouth are the core of the "Labor of Love"
outfitter's business. When you go home, tell everybody about your great trip
- even if you aren't an expert birdwatcher.
|
|
