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ARTICLES, SPEECHES AND OTHER READING
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YANGON, Myanmar - The cruise ship Silver Whisper docked in
Yangon (formerly known as Rangoon), the capital of Myanmar (a.k.a. Burma),
on Feb. 17 for the first of three nights in the troubled former kingdom.
Passengers descended from the luxury liner where they'd been treated like
royalty into a country stifled by a military dictatorship. There was some
debate about whether we should be there at all. For us, our presence was the
answer, with suggestions about how to place financial assistance in private
hands.
Myanmar is a great place to visit and we thank Silversea for the "ink",
but we do not condone travel to Burma on human rights considerations.
Earlier in the cruise, the Silver Whisper had docked at two ports in
Malaysia and one in Thailand, where John Gray was waiting. "I was interested
in Asian limestone," he said. "Especially the sea caves of Thailand." So, in
1989, Gray moved his kayaking business from Hawaii to Phang Nga Bay, near
Phuket.
What he found was a tranquil bay strewn with limestone towers and mountain
ridges millions of years old. Jutting abruptly upward, their bases had
gradually eroded, leaving stalactite-dripping shelves of rock overhanging
the bay.
SEE FOR YOURSELF - John Gray has been leading sea canoe excursions on
Phang Nga Bay in Thailand since 1989. He has extensive knowledge of the
ancient limestone mountains and the secret lagoons inside them.
CNS photo by Robert Ragaini.
A long-prowed boat sped Gray and two of us from a
mainland dock to a sandy island cove where he tossed a yellow, inflated
rubber kayak into the water. We settled in the bow while Gray, all 6 feet, 4
inches of him, sat behind and paddled into a hole in the island's wall.
Suddenly we were floating in total darkness. Gray flicked on a flashlight
and swept the beam over a colony of bats clinging to the limestone walls.
When light appeared at the end of the tunnel, we emerged into a grand
amphitheater open to the sky, surrounded by cliffs - a magic lagoon totally
hidden from outside. We visited three that day, laughing at the antics of
crab-eating macaque monkeys in one and paddling around mangrove roots in
another, watching mud-skippers, fish that breathe both on land and in water,
struggling across mud flats.
It didn't take long for Thai entrepreneurs to recognize the potential in
Phang Nga Bay that Gray had discovered. Now thousands of tourists ply the
bay in sea canoes identical to Gray's.
"I feel sorry for them," my friend said of the tourists whose guides knew
nothing of the geology, the history or the wildlife of the bay that Gray
shared with us. "They're missing so much."
I felt sorry for them, too. They weren't returning to the Silver Whisper.
IF YOU GO
Silversea Cruises (800 722-9955,
www.silversea.com)
sails the world in four ultra-luxury ships. Featured are exotic
destinations, art and culture, cuisine and comfort. "The fine things in
life." Elegant suites, all with panoramic ocean views, and meals in several
restaurants are exceptional. All beverages, in-room dining, tips and
entertainment are included. The international staff, from private butlers to
cabin attendants, are both professional and personable. Shore excursions,
which employ the best local tour operators and highlight the major sights of
cultural or scenic interest, last from several hours to several days. They
may include private openings of galleries and museums, cooking classes,
private helicopter sightseeing and exclusive visits. The tour staff assists
with independent touring.
Silversea's 11-night "Legend of the Golden Land" cruise begins and ends in
Singapore, an excellent place to spend a few days. Safe, spotlessly clean
and noted for innovative architecture, it boasts interesting Chinese and
Indian neighborhoods as well as waterfront enclaves of trendy restaurants
and clubs and cultural centers. All are connected by a futuristic elevated
rail system. For information about this modern city-state, contact the
Singapore Tourism Authority at 212 302-4861, or visit
www.visitsingapore.com.
The Four Seasons, Singapore (800-819-5053,
www.fourseasons.com),
celebrated by Travel & Leisure magazine and Zagat as the number one hotel in
Singapore, is highly recommended for a pre- and post-cruise visit. A short
walk to Singapore's bustling, ultra-modern shopping area, the hotel's 254
rooms and suites are elegant, quiet and extremely comfortable, as are its
two fine restaurants.
Though there are countless restaurants in Singapore, ranging from street
food to top-rated Asian cuisine, a good starting point is "My Humble House,"
tel: 6423 1881, 8 Raffles Avenue. Food and ambiance are far from humble.
Singapore Airlines (800 742-3333,
www.singaporeair.com),
which flies non-stop to Singapore from New York and Los Angeles, has been
named the world's best airline. Seats in all classes offer increased
legroom. Economy provides power for laptops, a private reading light and
personal movie screens. Business seats convert to fully flat beds. First
Class has to be seen (check the website) to be believed.
John Gray Seacanoe (66-76 254 505-7,
www.johngray-seacanoe.com)
was the original explorer and kayak operator in Phang Nga Bay on Phuket
Island, Thailand. Unlike the companies that copied him, Gray's guides are
trained and informed about the geology, plant and wildlife and history of
the area. Trips include meals that are fresh and tasteful. Passionate about
the natural environment, Gray offers customized kayaking, starlight tours
and multi-day tours in Phang Nga Bay, in Vietnam and the Philippines.
Robert Ragaini is a freelance travel writer.
© Copley News Service
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©2005 John Gray Sea Canoe
Co., Ltd. All rights reserved. 124 Soi 1 Yaowarat Rd., Taladyai, Muang, Phuket 83000, Thailand Tel. (66-76) 254505-7 | Fax: (66-76) 226077 E-mail: info@johngray-seacanoe.com |
